njdevils1990
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2010
- Messages
- 1,216
Heres some pictures too of the clutch and bearing job.
Got the EBR clutch tool. Its handy and I can torque the nut down properly now.
Front bearings removed easily (I used an unconventional way as I didn't have a bearing puller. A flat head and hammer, bit the rear I took to a yamaha dealer for removal) installation was easy as well.
Started off by draining the right side of oil and pulling the cover off. Crack the brake line banjo bolt and drain the fluid before you remove the clutch.
I tried a t-bar allen key in a 5mm but had to use vice grips and a normal 5mm key to get leverage.
T30 bit to remove the 8 cover bolts and were almost there.
I used the 5mm allen key instead of a wrench and a 19mm to remove the diaphragm nut. ! Be careful not to rip the diaphragm when you remove it! It likes to stick so be gentle.
And were at the clutch. Easy removal. I took the 5mm and in a star pattern like you do with lug nuts on a car slowly remove the spring bolts I did them 2 turns at a time and it took about 5 minites. I also oriented the bolts and springs so I can put them back in the same way they came out(you probably dont need to do this, they are the same length).
Pressure plate is out so time to dig the plates out.
Not too much space for fingers so I used 2 flat heads and wiggled the plates out.
New plates soaked in 1L of new oil for 30minutes. The steel plates were not soaked but I coated them with oil when I placed them in. Also I got a Barnett clutch kit, the owners manual will tell you to put a notched steel plate in first and that one side has sharp teeth and the other has round. This is for thw factory clutch. The Barnett kit has no notched plate and they can go in any way but always start with the steel plate! And alternate between till the end.
After that you can button everything up and drain the rest of the oil if you didn't already. Add the new stuff and take her for a spin.
Got the EBR clutch tool. Its handy and I can torque the nut down properly now.
Front bearings removed easily (I used an unconventional way as I didn't have a bearing puller. A flat head and hammer, bit the rear I took to a yamaha dealer for removal) installation was easy as well.
Started off by draining the right side of oil and pulling the cover off. Crack the brake line banjo bolt and drain the fluid before you remove the clutch.
I tried a t-bar allen key in a 5mm but had to use vice grips and a normal 5mm key to get leverage.
T30 bit to remove the 8 cover bolts and were almost there.
I used the 5mm allen key instead of a wrench and a 19mm to remove the diaphragm nut. ! Be careful not to rip the diaphragm when you remove it! It likes to stick so be gentle.
And were at the clutch. Easy removal. I took the 5mm and in a star pattern like you do with lug nuts on a car slowly remove the spring bolts I did them 2 turns at a time and it took about 5 minites. I also oriented the bolts and springs so I can put them back in the same way they came out(you probably dont need to do this, they are the same length).
Pressure plate is out so time to dig the plates out.
Not too much space for fingers so I used 2 flat heads and wiggled the plates out.
New plates soaked in 1L of new oil for 30minutes. The steel plates were not soaked but I coated them with oil when I placed them in. Also I got a Barnett clutch kit, the owners manual will tell you to put a notched steel plate in first and that one side has sharp teeth and the other has round. This is for thw factory clutch. The Barnett kit has no notched plate and they can go in any way but always start with the steel plate! And alternate between till the end.
After that you can button everything up and drain the rest of the oil if you didn't already. Add the new stuff and take her for a spin.
