Question for the fox body mustang guys.

[snrusnak]

And I assume since you said you just replaced radiator and electric fans that this wasn't having this issue before hand?

 

[sparky300]

Maybe a silly question...are you running a radiator shroud or not? Otherwise the fans aren't pulling air through the rad but around it.

I replaced my stock 180 tstat w/ a 160, opens sooner.

 

[snrusnak]

^That's also true.

Though with a 180 tstat and cruising at 40mph I wouldn't expect temps higher than 190-195.

 

[sparky300]

Summit also sells a kit that improves flow through the water pump, pretty much just a large washer that attaches to the front of the impeller w/ 3 rivets, but it works. It won't fix a bad wp though.

 

[Tacoclaw]

Dunno if fox bodies had them, but a lot of cars had an air dam under the radiator that caused a pressure differential on either side of it forcing air to flow through it. Since I don't see one in your pics, and the problem occurs when the car is in motion, my guess is the pressure underhood is too high for air to flow through your radiator.

 

[Kid1620]

It was a problem before that's why I changes the radiator and took the clutch fan out. The fans are mounted to the shroud.

I'm gonna try mix more water in and getting all the air out. If that doesn't work I'll get the electric water pump if that doesn't work then Idk what I'll do.

 

[snrusnak]

There's no use throwing money at it, you need to diagnose it and figure out what the problem is. You just spent a lot of money on radiator and electric fans, now talking about spending a lot on electric water pump. The problem could be free(air in the lines), could be $10(tstat sticking closed), or anything else. If you don't diagnose it you might as well just start throwing dollar bills in the toilet, make sure to flush every once in a while as to not clog it...

...seriously though, need to diagnose it to solve the problem and avoid frustration and mindlessly spending money.

Start with purging all the air out, that might be the entire problem if there's a lot of air in there.

Then post back with any results(or lack of results) and can take the next step.

Also, can you post pics of the expansion tank, radiator, and fans?

 

[snrusnak]

Also, buy a $7 coolant tester and be sure the coolant you are using is good.

 

[freak2180]

^^^^^^^[up]^^^^^^^^^

 

[Kid1620]

I'll get some pics when I can. Cars is in St. Louis and I'm in Texas on my way to Seattle. So it'll be a little while.

 

[sparky300]

Did you not ask about the history or a list of work done? Its kinda hard to diagnose a issue without knowing about the motors history

Agreed. If the compression and/or displacement was bumped up,http://www.5-0dro.com/ was the fuel compensated for accordingly, (i.e. lean condition) will make it run hotter. A stock pump definitely won't be able to provide enough fuel above 300 bhp and if you're running stock blue-top 19 lb injectors, they may have maxed out their duty cycle as well.

With that said, a weak water pump, bad radiator cap or a system that's air-bound will compound the overheating problem.

Dunno if fox bodies had them, but a lot of cars had an air dam under the radiator that caused a pressure differential on either side of it forcing air to flow through it

Yes they did, a small air deflector under the chin and below the radiator support, and I don't see one in the pics. I can tell you from experience, I took mine off once and my car DID run hotter.

But, I digress.

 

[MustangGuy]

I still have some heat issues with my 85 in spite of the work I've done on mine. It has never actually overheated though. Well, I do live in the desert. You've got a good radiator in there. The fans may not be as good as you think, since you didn't install yourself - or am I wrong? I found many fans out there when I made the swap, so I tried to look at actual cfm ratings, amp draws. BTW, did you upgrade your alternator? I think there may be some trapped air as previously suggested. My experience is that is a common occurance. Is the timing correct? You can adjust the base timing... Maybe someone advanced it too much. Does it ever ping? If you're planning on swapping out the water pump, why not just go with a hi- perf belt driven pump? Electric is cool (no pun intended), but expensive. Summit Racing has a lot of good choices. The last thing you might want to check - or rather replace - is the tstat. I'm not clear on the "newer" 5.0's but in the 85 version it is easy to put the tstat in backwards. There are a couple of good websites I'm on: mustanggt.org and foureyedpride.com (though limited to pre-87 mustangs, it is a great source of info) best of luck!

 

[50dro]

Just put a Mishimoto rad and Intrepid fans on my fairly stock 87. Drove a few times since and it runs around 180. New 180 thermostat as well. Here's a pic of the car because I wanna! LOL

 

[Tacoclaw]

If you don't have the air dam available, you should at the very least, plug every single hole around the radiator. The better the seal around the rad/core support, the more the air pressure on the nose of the car will be able to force air through the radiator and into the engine compartment.

A cowl induction hood is not beneficial to this scenario either. the air pressure at the base of the windshield will be nearly as much as the nose of the car once up to speed. I didn't see one in those pics, but if you've got one now it may not be helping either.

 

[Kid1620]

Okay so here is everything I know is done to my car:

Holley 750cfm 4 barrel carburetor
Edelbrock mid rise intake manifold
Cam not sure on lift or duration
High compression pistons not sure on the compression
MSD ignition system
MSD distributor
BBK long tube headers
High flow fuel pump
Holley fuel pressure regulator
High amp alternator. It did have 4 10" subs 4amps 4 6x9 an extra battery crossover and compassitor. Got rid of all that excess weight.
Might have some head work not sure on that yet
Aluminum drive shaft

That and some more was done to the car before I bought it. I personally installed the mishumoto aluminum radiator, high flow fans, hoses, thermostat housing, and thermostat. Mishumoto rep told me as long as I'm not running 800+ hp this system will work flawlessly. It's not a fuel issue. It's not a timing issue. Both are fine.

The first thing I'm going to do if flush the coolant system adding more water then coolant. And removing all the air bubbles I can.if that doesn't work I'll have to buy all the plastic shrouds go on top and under the core support. If that doesn't work next step is removing the thermostat. If that doesn't work I'm getting an electric water pump which I've wanted to do anyway. Take some more drag off the motor. If that doesn't work the motor is coming apart over the winter anyway so I'll figure out what's going on then. Thanks for the tips I'll let you all know what happens.

 

[Tacoclaw]

You don't have to buy any of the stuff around the radiator if it's not the problem, just use duct, or masking to avoid the residue, tape and plug everything off. All the holes and cracks in the core support.

Those lower air dams are pretty important, you may want to source one of them regardless. They take a lot of load off the fan/electrical system once the car is in motion.

 

[Kid1620]

Not one to use tape on my cars or bike if I can help it. The two side shrouds and the lower shroud are $79 and the aluminum upper shroud is $100 so I'll go from cheapest to most expencsive. Lol bring on the fun times

 

[Tacoclaw]

I'm not one to *keep* tape on my stuff, but I'm not one to blow $200 trying to troubleshoot a problem either.

Like was said earlier, the last thing you want to do is spend $$ before you know what the problem is. Go cheap finding the problem, then spend the $$ once to fix it. [cool]

 

[snrusnak]

Dude just buy a coolant tester and make sure you get the coolant/water mix correct. They are like $7. Having too little coolant will cause other problems(corrosion, and obviously freezing). You want a 50/50 mix. If you're in a REALLY cold area 60/40 max.

Didn't think about the tstat installed backwards, double check that...

 

[Litos]

I see your problem from just the pictures......take the blue oval off the front of it and replace it with a bowtie. Problem solved

OR, you could keep the LX body and drop an LS1 or LS2 in it [up]

here's my buddy's cammed LS1 Fox LX. i believe he said it was an 86 or 87, but he has a 90 or 91 front bumper and headlights.

ran 11.40's all motor with M/T's...12.1 with street tire.