Voltage Regulator or Stator?

[Cooter]

I know it sucks to type a bunch, but THANK YOU for the details.

A 10-18mA draw is too much, 1.1 is OK. It sounds like you know why it draws. My guess is the Alarm system starter disconnect relay is wired incorrectly. It should only be active when the alarm is armed, the ignition circuit hot, AND the starter button is pressed. (#30 to starter, #87 to starter button and jumped to #85, #86 to alarm)

You're voltage dropping to 7 when it's cranking slow, tells me you need a battery.

It sounds like all of your charging system is OK.

 

[user_deleted]

with fully charged battery disconnect the negative cable. using a multi-meter set on DC AMPS connect one meter lead to end of negative cable and other lead to negative battery post. a constant current draw of more than approx. 1/2 amp means a problem and eventual dead battery. this test done of course with ignition OFF. start removing each blade fuse individually...then each relay. watch the meter for change. when it changes you've found the circuit with the excessive drain on the battery.

 

[TPEHAK]

with fully charged battery disconnect the negative cable. using a multi-meter set on DC AMPS connect one meter lead to end of negative cable and other lead to negative battery post. a constant current draw of more than approx. 1/2 amp means a problem and eventual dead battery. this test done of course with ignition OFF. start removing each blade fuse individually...then each relay. watch the meter for change. when it changes you've found the circuit with the excessive drain on the battery.

I performed this test yesterday, and it shows 10-18 mA with alarm system+mLock system. If I disconnect the alarm system it eats 7-10 mA. If I disconnect both alarm system and mLock system the motorcycle circuit with ignition off eats 1.1 mA. But even 10-18 mA is way smaller than 1/2 Amp (500 mA).

When my motorcycle is resting with ignition turned off and without charger it has no issues, it holds charge, It starts easy after weeks with no riding and with no battery on the charger. The issue is that something drained the battery very fast while I was riding, or the charging system was not working properly.

Today I checked the battery in a few different auto-parts stores and testers say the battery is good. So I am confused.

 

[user_deleted]

So I am confused.
see link below. buy one of these. it has 2 plain leads.
wire lead with white tracer to any switched positive source. i use orange headlight feed wire.
wire lead without white tracer to any ground. i use black headlight feed wire.
mount to flat pad atop left handlebar switchgear.
now ride. on low beam with no accessories operating it must read between 13.1 and 14.4 volts.
does it? nice
does it not? post back.
so simple.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof-...ash=item25b0c51bfc:g:o30AAOSw~bFWOvzD&vxp=mtr

 

[TPEHAK]

OK, it happened again, a couple days ago the battery voltage dropped to 12 volts after one hour morning commute, I even noticed the engine check light while riding for a moment, which means low voltage on the battery. Before the morning commute the battery was fully charged. But at the same day after returning home the battery had been fully charged after this one hour trip back home. And I did not wash the motorcycle before that day, and it was dry warm day.

I plugged heat gear that morning, but did not use it. And it was working OK with the heat gear another days. The heat gear has Radio Control module, is it possible that it can have a glitch and the receiver can eat amperes with no hitting the heat gear?

So I bought the voltmeter and soldered it in the Front 12V Auxiliary Power Outlet wires. On the 2009 Buell XB this outlet works only when engine run, but I believe it does not affect on the voltage reading.

I mounted the voltmeter to the bar clamp with double-side tape

And here is the results

Any suggestions?

 

[user_deleted]

with all the gadgets, trinkets, alarms, m-locks, radio control modules, heated gear and other assorted paraphernalia you've been mentioning who knows where the problem lies. as per the volt gauge i suggested your bike is charging within specs.

 

[Cooter]

It's charging to spec in the pics, but sounds like an intermittent no charging issue

I'll look at the wiring diagram tomorrow to see if there's a control wire to the VR. Cars have an exciter that turns the alternator (stator and VR) on and off with the ignition to stop parasitic draw. Maybe these have one too and it has an intermittent connection?

It would say something about it in the diagnostic area of your manual, I'm just way to tired to look right now.

Have you checked the usual suspects? #77 connector? 30a fuse corrosion??

 

[TPEHAK]

I checked the connectors #77 and connectors #46, they are OK. I did not check the 30 Ampere fuse yet.

I've performed a long trip yesterday and it looks like my heat gear affect the system voltage, it can slightly reduce the system voltage even without heating just with connected heat gear controller, at idle RPM the voltage drops below 12.8 volts with connected but not using heat gear controller, maybe this is the issue, because all those dead battery days my heat gear was connected and I was staying in heavy traffic long time. When I fire up the hear gear to full capacity the system voltage drops below 12.4 volts at idle and below 13.1 volts at high RPM.

 

[TPEHAK]

This morning after one hour commute the battery again dropped to 12 volts. I did not connect my heat gear, so the gear is not the issue. It looks like my motorcycle does not like to idle long time in slow traffic.

Once I started the motorcycle this morning it showed 13.1 volts at idle 1100 RPM and 14.2 volts at RPM higher than 2000. Then I started my ride and within half an hour of slow riding and idling in the slow morning traffic the system voltage slowly dropped to 12.1 volts at idle 1100 RPM, 13.1 volts at 2000 RPM and about 13.8 volts at 3000 RPM.

In one hour I got my work place and checked the system voltage:

12.3 volts at idle 1100 RPM (12.1 volts with working fan)

13.4 volts at 2000 RPM

14.1 volts at RPM higher than 3000

What does it mean?

I checked all fuses, they look very good, no any rust, like brand new.

Before I back home tonight the battery voltage was 12 volts, once I got home the battery voltage was 12.4 volts, tonight traffic was not too bad so I did not idle on the back way home.

 

[buell248]

Did you disconnect all your accessories completely, if you have them hard wired in, I would try that first, before replacing any expensive parts.

 

[Cooter]

It's charging, but just not enough.

It's either charging weakly or intermittantly, and the stator test outlined in the manual would tell you if all the legs are ok. Weird, but maybe a VR?

OR theres a big intermittent draw while running:
Maybe the fan in going out and causing a big draw?
Some other accessory is drawing more than you think while running?

 

[TPEHAK]

The first thing I did is I performed stator and voltage regulator test and it was OK, I posted test results earlier in this thread. Both stator legs are OK. Today I measured current of the system with ignition on and engine off using clamp-on ammeter and it showed 5 Amps at low beam and 5.5 Amps at high beam on the main harness connected to the battery terminal. Is it OK? Another accessories connected to the battery terminal showed disparagingly small current comparing with the main harness. I did not have a chance yet to measure main harness current with working fan. Maybe the battery after one year of riding started this behavior because of vibrations?

 

[Cooter]

Ya, sorry TPEHAK. This thread is super old, and I didn't re-read it again before answering. The hardest part is you don't give direct answers to direct questions. You just give a description of whats happening currently. It makes it difficult to follow a diagnostic path.

So far your charging system tests good, and even charges good. I does seem just a little weak, but if I'm reading your posts correctly it seems intermittent, like the charging system is turning on and off, or theres a really big intermittent draw (that why I'd like you to test the fan).

When you are checking for a resting draw (I don't think thats an issue) you can't have the headlights on or you are just measuring what the headlights draw. 5 amps is fine for headlights. You can download ECMDroid to turn the fan on with your ammeter connected.

Yes, I'm afraid a year old battery on a Buell could be bad. Buells need a TON of cranking amps, and then they shake the crap out of the battery for it's whole life:black_eyed:. It might just be good insurance to replace it with a nice one.

 

[TPEHAK]

Today I rode my motorcycle to a store, I parker it for 10 minutes, then I starter it again and the engine idle was very rough. I glanced on the voltage gauge and noticed the voltage is 11.7 volts. I twisted the throttle and there was no voltage response on the higher RPM. For me it looked like there in no connection between the charging system and the battery. So I started hurry back home before the battery will be totally dead. Also engine check light came on. In 10 minutes the battery voltage slowly dropped to 11.5 volts, all this time I rode there was no any charging and no voltage response on RPM. But in 10 minutes the charging had come back and I had come home with no issues.

At home I turned engine off and turned it on again. Then I started to wiggle the wires and the fuse box under the sit, the charging was OK. I wiggled the wires and connector under the left side air scoop, there was no any affecting on the charging. Then I twisted the throttle and charging disappeared again and voltage gauge showed 11.6 volts with no response on throttle anymore! I again started to wiggle the wires under the sit with no luck to trigger charging back. Then I twisted the throttle again and charging went back. Then I played again with throttle and wires and was not able to disappear charging.

For me it looks like there is bad connection somewhere or damaged wire. How can I check what exactly happened? Is it possible that it is bad voltage regulator?

Also I noticed the fuse box was hot. Is it normal?

 

[Cooter]

Ok. Sound like 'intermittent charging' is the winner.
Fuse box being hot is NOT normal, but it's a clear sign of a bad connection.

Take it off and look underneath. Anything melted?

Your VR needs to be turned on to work. That's what the charging fuse does. Check that one closely.

 

[user_deleted]

Today I rode my motorcycle to a store, I parker it for 10 minutes, then I starter it again and the engine idle was very rough. I glanced on the voltage gauge and noticed the voltage is 11.7 volts. I twisted the throttle and there was no voltage response on the higher RPM. For me it looked like there in no connection between the charging system and the battery. So I started hurry back home before the battery will be totally dead. Also engine check light came on. In 10 minutes the battery voltage slowly dropped to 11.5 volts, all this time I rode there was no any charging and no voltage response on RPM. But in 10 minutes the charging had come back and I had come home with no issues.

At home I turned engine off and turned it on again. Then I started to wiggle the wires and the fuse box under the sit, the charging was OK. I wiggled the wires and connector under the left side air scoop, there was no any affecting on the charging. Then I twisted the throttle and charging disappeared again and voltage gauge showed 11.6 volts with no response on throttle anymore! I again started to wiggle the wires under the sit with no luck to trigger charging back. Then I twisted the throttle again and charging went back. Then I played again with throttle and wires and was not able to disappear charging.

For me it looks like there is bad connection somewhere or damaged wire. How can I check what exactly happened? Is it possible that it is bad voltage regulator?

Also I noticed the fuse box was hot. Is it normal?

all your symptoms covered in this older thread. go to first post on page 2 from rays in OZ.....covers your ailments precisely. the fusebox should NEVER be hot. the heat is generated via one or more of the relays. clear indication of faulty connections. your CEL activated via code #16. it may or may not be permanently stored in the CEL. if permanently it should be cleared after repairs to fusebox assembly made.

http://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?45926-ulysses-fuse-relay-overheating/page2

 

[ztied]

Some of my finds may or may not help , internally broken battery posts, and the internals of the connector from the vr. Wiggle test didnt change any voltage, but when I cut the connector out and wired it straight I never had anymore low voltage. Of course listen to guys above they got good advice

 

[TPEHAK]

Would it be enough just remove the fuses and the relays, spray electronic or contact cleaner in the fuse box contacts and plug back new fuses and new relays?

 

[Rays]

I suppose it is safe to say it shouldn't do any harm to try that and you never know your luck in the big city.
However, if I had those symptoms I wouldn't ride it any further than I was prepared to push it / trailer it back.

If you do remove the relays look very carefully at the relay block for any signs of overheating similar to this:



If you do then you are beyond contact cleaner and you will need to dig deeper - almost certainly a female socket replacement required to make a reliable repair if it has been cooked this badly.

 

[TPEHAK]

I inspected my fuse box, all connectors look perfect on the top and on the bottom

Cleaned them with contact cleaner and installed new fuses and relays